From florals to bling, trends that dominated Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI
The recently concluded fashion week saw designers proposing pieces embodying both day and evening glam
The recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI saw most designers staying true to their core design vocabulary while including couture elements into ready to wear.
Designer Amit Hansraj of label Inca, for instance, showcased 22 looks comprising draped dresses, soft-structured jackets and separates that could be effortlessly mixed and matched—a design philosophy the brand is known for.
Abraham & Thakore's collection, Warp & Weft, meanwhile, gave a new touch to the humble dhoti and lungi, which formed the anchor of the line. The simple bordered dhoti was transformed into a handkerchief skirt and even a baby doll top. The lungi, on the other hand, was given a modern formalwear treatment.
Designer duo Pankaj & Nidhi's Araquis was largely about appliqué, a form of embroidery they are known for. From bold shoulders to striking appliques, each ensemble was an invitation to play dress up.
Also worth mentioning is designer Anurag Gupta's collection, An Ode to Hokusai, which was an homage to Japanese artist and painter Katsushika Hokusai. Gupta reimagined the artwork, presenting off-kilter, statement-making deconstructed forms. The dynamism of the pieces played out on the architectural silhouettes, along with surface ornamentation resulting in a strong collection.
Here are some of the key fashion trends that emerged at the Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI 2025:
Go bold
Anchoring the ITRH collection was the sheesh pushida jaal, a mirror work technique paired with gotta patti, dabka and zardozi. Each silhouette was presented on antique Banarasi brocade and tissue.
Shantnu Nikhil's Velora reimagined red-carpet dressing, underscoring the brand's mastery over draping techniques. There were corseted bodices with daring necklines, fluid gowns, both sculpted yet draped which are likely to command attention at any given outing.
Tarun Tahiliani's presentation highlighted how present day maximalism can be expressive and wearable at the same time. Scaling up his signature embellishments on fluidly draped silhouettes, the designer combined different craft with a modern twist.
Nikita Mhaisalkar experimented with fabrics, from hemp denim and jersey to sheer silk georgette. She also presented a variety of tweeds that sparkled with Banarasi zari work. Hand-cut sequins, stones and metallic threads created an illusion of stardust on the fabrics.
Comfort and craft
Inca, which has always been about everyday pieces that celebrate heritage, presented craft-led, comfort-first clothes, including raffia and brocade in dresses and kaftans.
Aseem Kapoor's Akaar drew inspiration from the spiritual and artistic traditions of ancient Peru, particularly the Nazca geoglyphs. Spirals, hummingbirds, and cosmic pathways were reinterpreted through textiles and silhouettes that harmonised fluidity with structure.
Easy chic
Shweta Gupta’s brand SWGT's collection, Look Closer, included delicate pintuck and pleating crafted on handwoven mulberry silk and soft cotton from West Bengal. Gupta's long coats, bomber jackets and shift dresses were fluid and airy.
Anavila Mishra’s Sarmast took the viewer on a trip to the mystic state of wajd, using handwoven linen, appliquéd satin and hand embroidery. French lace with fine crochet infused a sense of tenderness to form.
Akaaro's collection, Starlight, highlighted the beauty of handwoven silk, khadi silk, cotton, and signature kinjis.
Designer Payal Jain interpreted the French ethos with a distinct Indian flavour. The ivory mulmul was highlighted with chikankari, phanda and murri floral motifs, while handstitched lace stacks, cutwork detailing in cotton, tonal beadwork and layered appliqués offered an exciting fashion story.
Print proposal
For her collection, designer Mahima Mahajan was inspired by her grandmother’s interest in floral prints. From lehnga-style saris to bridal lehngas and Indian bridesmaid dresses, Mahajan’s collection offered a refreshing take on clothes for brides-to-be and her family and friends..
Siddhartha Bansal’s collection, Paradise City, highlighted the playfulness of summer coolers, candy colours, jelly flowers and frozen blooms. His collection exuded a sense of coolness with their translucent quality and textures, inspired by ice, cake decorations and candies.
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