
Masaba x Amrapali Jewels: The art of making fine jewellery

Summary
In an interview with Lounge, Amrapali's Tarang Arora and designer Masaba Gupta talk about the idea behind their first fine jewellery collaborationEarlier this week, the house of Masaba announced a partnership with Amrapali Jewels for the launch of a fine jewellery collection.
Inspired by the iconic mascots that have defined the house of Masaba over the years, the 46-piece gender-fluid collection marks the brand’s expansion in the space of fine jewellery and features a diverse range of pieces, from elaborate haars to contemporary chokers and haslis, incorporating gemstones such as diamonds, rubies and emeralds.
Tribe Amrapali, a part of Amrapali Jewels, and Masaba had earlier collaborated for the Ghana Ghana collection. Tarang Arora, creative director and CEO of Amrapali Jewels, says, "That collection used base metals and had a more accessible price point. It was designed to be easy to wear. It reflected a more relaxed, everyday luxury."
The second collaboration is more personal and indulgent. "While the first collection featured brass, this new one is made with gold, which automatically elevates the feel. The inclusion of diamonds and precious stones brings a level of personalisation and uniqueness to each piece. We’ve also made a conscious effort to incorporate written elements into many of the pieces, which adds to the individuality of the collection," adds Arora.
In an interview with Lounge, Arora and Gupta talk about the second collaboration and the idea behind it. Edited excerpts:
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How was the process of ideation and brainstorming?
Tarang Arora: We’ve always had a strong collaborative dynamic with Masaba. Over time, we've developed a deep understanding of each other’s creative wavelengths. This time around, there were a few more factors to consider. The rise in gold prices made the process a bit more complex, as we had to be cautious with pricing while ensuring the collection resonated with our target audience. Striking the right balance between design, pricing, and exclusivity took some time.
It’s a fine jewellery collection, so the process had to be far more meticulous and detailed. At the same time, we wanted the collection to remain playful and fun, something that people would enjoy wearing. That’s really a hallmark of Masaba’s style, and we didn’t want to lose that lightheartedness. A big part of the collection was also about reinventing some of Masaba’s signature motifs, which we’ve done before, but this time we brought them into the fine jewellery world with a fresh approach.
Of course, working with new textures, finishes, and different elements posed its challenges, but since we’ve collaborated before, we were very aware of what those challenges might be. The key was to ensure that every piece truly captured the soul of the collection, and that’s something we were really focused on throughout the process.
What's the story behind the title of the Campaign ‘Identity Crisis’?
Masaba Gupta: The story behind “identity crisis" is that anyone who has followed the brand's journey over the last 16 years has seen us consistently do things in a certain way. We've always focused on being an accessible product, leaning towards openness and everyday wear.
There has always been a sense of inclusivity with the brand. Over the years, we've diversified into multiple categories—be it imitation jewellery, athleisure, ready-to-wear, or even designing a nano car. We've explored many versions of design collaborations. However, whenever I mentioned my desire to focus on jewellery, the response was often surprising. People assumed we were referring to imitation or fashion jewellery, similar to what we did with Amrapali earlier. Traditionally, we have been a ready-to-wear brand catering to women who want to wear a kurta, shirt, or dress every single day. Yet, last year, we pivoted significantly by launching our first bridal collection, transitioning into a bridal house. And now, we've ventured into fine jewellery. In many ways, we're doing things that are unexpected— not just for our audience, but for me as a founder as well.
I always envisioned the brand remaining in the accessible bracket. Today, it's a surprise for me to realise that I have a desire to step out of the box and explore the world of luxury. I’ve always had a different perspective on what luxury means in India. The shopping market here operates very differently compared to other parts of the world.
When the opportunity arose to venture into something completely new—operating at a much higher price point and entering markets dominated by a select few—it felt like an identity crisis. Over the past year, I’ve felt a shift, a change of heart, about where I want to take the brand. This campaign resonates with that identity crisis. It feels surreal to see the same mascots, neckpieces, and ornaments we once crafted in brass and silver now being reimagined as fine jewellery—crafted in 18-karat gold and adorned with precious stones.
I never imagined myself as someone who would speak the language of emeralds, rubies, and the finer things in life, as they say. But I believe the best way to address an identity crisis is to embrace it. We've chosen to celebrate this transformation through our products and to do so publicly as a brand. I also believe our customers are ready for this evolution. Over the last 16 years, they’ve grown and evolved, and we’re now stepping up to let them know we’ve finally caught up with them.
The collection draws inspiration from the iconic mascots that have defined the House of Masaba over the years…
Masaba Gupta: The mascots you see are actually house mascots—what I call the talismans of protection for the brand. They are the ‘camera’, the ‘candy’, the ‘palm’, and the ‘Nandi’. You may have seen them in the past as digital prints, but now they’ve evolved into tangible pieces—pieces not just to wear but to invest in, as they are crafted in the finest gold. The idea was to offer people more than just a piece of clothing through these mascots. Each one carries a deeply personal story.
The palm, for instance, originates from my childhood, when my mother would take impressions of my hand. The Nandi holds a special place in my heart, symbolising auspiciousness for both the brand and myself. The toffee is a nod to our first-ever Instagram show in 2014, which, at the time, was a pioneering effort in the country. The toffee print was central to that show. Finally, the camera represents a significant part of my design identity and has been a recurring motif in our journey. These mascots are more than mere symbols—they serve as a compass, guiding me in the right direction whenever I feel creatively lost. They are a protective and inspiring force, always there for me, constantly reigniting my creative expression.
How do you suggest styling these pieces in everyday looks?
Tarang Arora: The beauty of this collection is its versatility—there are so many pieces that can seamlessly fit into your everyday look. For instance, we have a range of rings and pendants that are easy to wear and connect with people on a personal level. One of my favourite pieces is the camera pendant, which actually opens up into a little charm where you can insert a photograph. It’s such a cool piece—if you’re someone who loves photography, like I do, it’s a perfect everyday accessory. It's fun and meaningful all at once. As for the price range, we’ve designed the collection to cater to a variety of budgets. It starts at around ₹1.5 lakh and can go up to ₹20-25 lakh for some of the more intricate, one-of-a-kind pieces.
The idea is to create a collection that's not only fun but also offers great value. Gold, as we know, is not just a luxury—it’s an investment. With its increasing value, gold jewellery has always been a safe bet for long-term savings. So while the collection covers a wide range of price points, it’s priced in a way that makes it accessible for our clientele, without compromising on quality. The higher-end pieces, especially the more exclusive ones, will remain truly unique. Even if a design is repeated, each piece will have its own individuality. We’ve really focused on creating a sense of exclusivity for those who invest in these statement pieces. I
t’s all about making sure that what you’re getting is special—something you can treasure in your collection for years to come.
As a brand, what are the attributes you look for in a potential collaborator?
Tarang Arora: Understanding and alignment of aesthetics. It’s essential that both sides resonate with each other’s design philosophy. Beyond that, we look for flexibility and ease of collaboration—working together should be a smooth and enjoyable process. But the real magic happens when we find someone who pushes us beyond our limits and challenges us to think outside the box. That’s what excites us! For instance, with this collection, we’ve experimented with design elements that we wouldn't typically explore in our regular lines. There are serious stones, diamonds, and high-value materials, but we’ve balanced that with a fun and playful approach. It’s a unique combination that we wouldn't have tried if we weren't collaborating. We’ve seen this success with past collaborations as well, like the ones with Anamika Khanna and Manish Arora. Even though some of those pieces were made in silver, each one was unique and never repeated.
The limited-edition aspect of collaborations lets us push our creative boundaries and deliver something truly special. These partnerships keep us on our toes and help us evolve as a brand, always finding new ways to surprise and delight our customers.
The 46-piece collection symbolises the brand’s transition into the realms of couture, bridal wear and festive. What were the challenges in translating these categories into jewellery?
Masaba Gupta: The challenges in translating these categories into jewellery stem from the fact that, in many ways, fine jewellery controls you—you don’t control fine jewellery. There are inherent limitations to what can be done with stones, such as restrictions on weight, size, and availability. Additionally, you are constrained by the stones that come your way. It’s not a matter of molding them into whatever you want; it’s about finding the best emerald in the deepest green or, if it’s a Colombian emerald, the most luminous one possible, and then fitting that into your identity. This dynamic—where fine jewellery dictates terms—can be challenging but also rewarding. For me, it became a great source of motivation.
The process of waiting for the perfect stone requires letting go of preconceived design boundaries and remaining open to new possibilities.
In many ways, I found this aspect challenging but ultimately extraordinary. Another unique challenge in jewellery design, especially for this collection, was creating mostly single pieces. Many of the designs are one-of-a-kind because we may never come across the same stone again. This was a mental shift for us, as we were accustomed to the assembly-line mindset of clothing production—creating sizes, doubles, and triples, and ensuring every store carried multiple versions of the same product. In clothing, you can easily customise a piece with shorter sleeves or a longer hemline, but in fine jewellery, you’re working within the constraints of the stones and their availability. This transition from being an accessible, bridge-to-luxury brand to working in couture and fine jewellery brought its own learning curve. High-end categories like fine jewellery inherently come with boundaries, but these boundaries are necessary. They not only refine the creative process but also help you grow as a designer. Despite these challenges, the experience was deeply enjoyable. Designing these pieces was incredibly exciting for me. The evolution of customer preferences has also been inspiring—buyers are now seeking pieces that are both valuable and versatile, serving as statements not just for special occasions but also for day-to-night wear.
Bracelets and bangles come adorned with texts such as ‘Strength,’ ‘Love,’ ‘Pyaar,’ and ‘Peace’. How did these texts come about and translate into jewellery design?
Masaba Gupta: I think of ‘Pyaar,’ ‘Peace,’ ‘Strength,’ and ‘Love’ as affirmation bracelets. I also believe that an increasing number of women and men today want to wear jewellery that serves as a reminder of a larger message. That’s why we created the ‘Nirbhau Nirvair Nimrata’ necklace that means ‘Without hate, without fear, and with Love’—to represent the need for peace, strength, love, and the importance of living with more compassion.
As a designer, I’ve always seen my work as more than just creating garments. It has been a way of initiating conversations and communicating with people. My designs have always reflected the times we live in and the emotions of society. I believe society today craves these elements—peace, love, strength in their lives. The idea behind designing these pieces is to allow people to carry something personal with them, a message or word that resonates with them at a given moment. These pieces can even be personalised by us, enabling individuals to make them uniquely meaningful.
Tarang Arora: The texts we’ve used in the collection are really meant to serve as personal affirmations. When you read words like ‘Strength,’ ‘Love,’ or ‘Pyaar,’ there’s a certain power they carry with them. They evoke emotions, and that’s exactly what we wanted to capture in these pieces. Each word is carefully chosen to resonate with people on a deeper level—whether it's something they say to themselves or just need a reminder of. We’ve incorporated both English and Hindi, sometimes in English fonts, to break down any barriers of language and make it more inclusive.
It’s a way of making the messages feel even more accessible and universal. These words aren’t just decorative; they’re things we all think or say to ourselves in our everyday lives, even if not aloud—words that help us stay grounded, calm, and motivated. For me and Masaba, these pieces hold a lot of significance. We even created a special bracelet for Masaba with her daughter’s name on it, which makes these pieces feel even more personal. There’s something so meaningful about wearing these words on your wrist, as a reminder of strength, love, and peace.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based journalist and content creator.