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How to add drama to menswear
Summary
From layering to experimenting with embroideries, some key trends from the recently concluded fashion week that can help you turn casual clothes into statement outfits
Quiet luxury may be having a moment globally but there was nothing quiet about the menswear showcased at the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI (Fashion Design Council of India).
Sequinned vests, embellished trouser suits and fringed cocktail coats made their presence felt at Line Outline by Deepit Chugh and Rahul Singh. Denim got a special focus, with Pawan Sachdeva, Dhruv Kapoor and Kanika Goyal showcasing it with their distinctive street cred. What's more, Huemn's collaboration with R|ELAN, which employed high-performance fabrics of R|Elan, featured the use of mud as a “design texture".
Overall, designers exhibited trans-seasonal pieces, highlighting adventurous layering and surface texturing. Globally too, labels like Tod's, Gucci, Dior Men, Canali, Zegna, Hermès and Louis Vuitton have pushed the envelope when it comes to outerwear and layering, by proposing multi-pocketed chore jackets and knitwear crafted in technical textiles.
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Here are some of the key menswear trends that have emerged over the past few fashion shows:
Layering is here
Statement-making pieces and separates, which help one make a successful day to night transition, were seen across menswear showcases. Designer Deepit Chugh of label Line Outline has often derived inspiration from the raw, robust, beauty of architecture and urban structures and constructions, and this season, he inculcated many design elements of scaffolding, sidewalks patterns, glass cover buildings in his garments. His models wore logo-printed trench coats, pin-tucked shirts, trouser suits with sporty piping detail and fringed blazers. Rahul Singh sent out a glittery V-neck vest, a beaded trench in wispy soft fabric and a cropped blouson shirt.
Craft techniques
An alumni of National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)-Delhi and having worked with designers like Rohit Bal and Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Rahul Singh extrapolated the tie-and-dye technique and worked on many patterns and forms of shibori.
Offering a vibrant take on holiday dressing, he presented a tie-up robe with a sprinkling of embroidery, sequined gilets, printed tunics and embroidered jackets.
Abhishek Sharma's surface ornamentation stood out along with draping techniques. Kantha embroidery, 3D hand embellishments and intense beadwork and a masterful use of fabrics like matka silk, linen, silk, sheer net, velvet and chiffon made each ensemble stand out.
Denim evolution
Designer Pawan Sachdeva experimented with skin-friendly denim in his collection, titled, Trailblazer. Realised in various washes, colours and brushstrokes, the collection comprised both oversized and anti-fit pieces, as well as fitted jackets and trousers.
Having proved his mettle at Milan Fashion Week season after season, designer Dhruv Kapoor’s reinterpretation of denim evoked instant desirability. Creating custom-developed fabrics, he infused a touch of retro into his contemporary line. Presenting denim in diverse forms—giant and petite, distressed and hand-embroidered, painted, and raw, he proposed new ways to wear the textile. Kanika Goyal Label (KGL) reimagined denim through experimental tailoring, sending out striped tone on tone co-ord sets. Huemn's collection celebrated elevated denim, transforming it through intricate craftsmanship, while unexpected objects like garbage bags challenged perceptions of the ordinary.
Maximalist embellishments
Line Outline's ensembles offered new innovations, from the giant lapels of the knee-length coats to the shawl collar of the cropped jackets. Sheer vests were dappled with embroidery, while discreet glitter occasionally appeared. Embellishments concentrated on hand embroidery, cording, pitta work and hints of zardozi. “I like to work with looks using contemporary embroideries and create outfits that are wearable yet make a statement and allow you to stand out in a crowd. My inspiration is an amalgamation of cityscapes, architecture and personalities that all come together," shared the designer Deepit Chugh.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
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