Milan Fashion Week: Classic tailoring gets a trendy twist

The recently concluded Milan Fashion Week spring-summer 2025 menswear season was a lesson in how to give classic tailoring a trendy upgrade.

Tod's creative director Matteo Tamburini, for instance, had photographs of French screen legend Alain Delon and designer Stefano Pilati (both risk-taking style icons) on his moodboard. Hence, there were unexpected details in the label's formal tailoring, like a field jacket was crafted in lightweight nappa.

At Gucci, on the other hand, creative director Sabato De Sarno explored the surfwear theme, opening the show with a leather coat in neon green worn with a pair of micro shorts. His bowling shirts with patch pockets evoked the silhouette of a chore jacket—they were fringed, beaded and printed.

Fendi, meanwhile, marked its 100th anniversary with a menswear collection that saw Silvia Fendi looking into the house's rich archives. The distinctive Selleria stitching was, for example, reimagined as a check on a brown leather overcoat.

Also read: Why is menswear so boring on the red carpet?

Here are some of the other key trends that emerged:

Camp collar shirts

Fendi exemplified its mastery over craft, creating trompe l'oeil effects with its suede and shearling camp collar shirts that looked super lightweight. At Gucci, De Sarno sublimated the camp collar shirts with palms, dolphins and hibiscus leaves. Palm tree and leaves prints were also seen on T-shirts, shirts and trousers at Giorgio Armani.

Soft, organic hues

Tod’s collection stood out thanks to a subdued palette of earthy tones. Armani's show, meanwhile, featured the brand's key silhouettes in shades of grey, beige, taupe, cream, navy and midnight blue.

Lightweight tailoring and knits

This season, Alessandro Sartori at Zegna introduced a new linen with a crease-free quality. Embodying his commitment to weightless tailoring, he showcased a suede unlined and deconstructed jacket. Sartori's jacquard knit jumpers, worn with high-waist relaxed tailored pants, were also striking.

At Prada, there were vibrant V neck cardigans, which, at the outset, looked like worn over polo shirts but on closer inspection appeared as a single knit piece.

High-octane drama

Dsquared2 explored the 1980s underground gay culture with an erotically charged showcase of bondage and fetishes.

JW Anderson, on the other hand, weaved humour into his craft. Its collectionincluded chunky cardigans and shift knits.

Dolce & Gabbana's exuberant offering epitomised the spirit of La Dolce Vita, with jackets made of wicker weavings and coral embroidery peppered on the buttoned shirts and trousers.

At Emporio Armani, there was a charming equestrian, saddlery-like undercurrent with men sporting leather shorts, boots and harnesses.

The man bag

Tod's iconic Di Bag in the new sack version and in various canvas and leather variants received a new makeover, making it apt for weekends and leisure time.

Similarly, De Sarno's Gucci B bag was presented in regular as well as a mini size, to suit different needs.

Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.

Also read: A must-do seasonal trend: closet cleanse