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New York Fashion Week: Designers are trying to reinvent sexy
Summary
Many of the fall-winter collections at the recently concluded fashion week were focused on sexy, comfort-first clothing
The recently concluded New York Fashion Week saw charming references to almost every significant decade in fashion—the 70s, 80s, 90s and 2000s. While some designers indulged in nostalgia, bringing back some key pieces from their archives, many offered pared-back, decidedly no-fuss, wearable clothing. All had one aim: reinvent what sexy dressing means.
There were, of course, some exceptions, like Christian Siriano, Christian Cowan, Christopher John Roger, LaPointe and Collina Strada, who thrilled the viewers and fashion enthusiasts with theatrical silhouettes and unabashedly bold styles.
One of the most talked about shows this season was Calvin Klein's. The brand's collection, under the guidance of the newly appointed artistic director Veronica Leoni, included hits like the trompe-l’oeil monochrome ballgowns and dainty animal-print clutch bags inspired by the silhouette of the CK One bottle. Leoni also brought back a slingback ballerina flat from the archive which was styled with a fuzzy brown nubby coat worn. The designer said in the press notes, “My goal is to define an ultimate and definitive expression of monumental minimalism and pureness through shape and craft."
Here are some other highlights from the recently concluded New York Fashion Week (NYFW).
Fun with fur
Faux fur, which was seen across presentations at the recent Milan and Paris menswear weeks, made its presence at NYFW as well. Sergio Hudson's opening look, for instance, was a cropped red Mongolian fur coat paired with a satin top and high-waisted trousers. Designer Kim Shui too presented her formal sets with faux fur trimmings.
Designer Snow Xue Gao sent out a faux fur coat crafted with wool, inspired by the young women who walked past her store in furry jackets. Donna Karan New York also presented a traditional black overcoat accented with “ocelot" fur collar. So did Prabal Gurung, whose double face cashmere tops accented with fur trimmings evoked instant desirability.
Summer knits
Brandon Maxwell presented an array of instantly covetable knits—there was a polo-neck pullover and party dresses in black animal spot intarsias.
Collina Strada, meanwhile, showcased a panoply of chunky, and comfy knits crafted with deadstock knits. The uber-chic wool overcoats made from upcycled wool were the pièces de résistance, especially one in a tone of caramel and held together with hand-cut ribbons creating a charming, textured furry look.
Also read: Milan fashion week: Designers make formalwear more casual
Simkhai too presented cashmere sweaters with distressed hems in an attempt to highlight the craft techniques which went into creating each piece. His knitted micro shorts and cardigans came accented with crystal embellishments, ideal for evening outings and date nights.
Unapologetic theatrics
Christian Siriano, Christian Cowan, Christopher John Roger and Collina Strada sent out statement-making collections, all meant for the risk-taking dresser.
Cowan's collection was partly inspired by a famous television show in the UK that he grew up watching, “Art Attack". Hence came in a chewing gum-inspired dress, a colour-blocked polka dotted corsets and blazers. Also, the high heels in his show were styled as a top for covering each breast. Playful yet provocative.
Also read: The best of Paris haute couture week
Collina Strada's opening model took to the runway like the Little Red Riding Hood, donning a balloon jacket dress. Some of the models in the show wore hoods, oversized bee-eye, mask-like sunglasses, lending drama to the entire look. Christopher John Roger’s line up of trenches came stitched with rows of varying grosgrain ribbons dotting the hems.
Statement coats
Capes were seen at every major show this season. Altuzarra's opening navy cape coat was crafted with sleeves, thereby combining style with practicality.
For her collection, designer Ulla Johnson collaborated with Dutch textile artist Claudy Jongstra, who raises her own sheep and uses natural vegetable dyes on yarn. Johnson presented two felted coats, which looked plush and luxurious. Other coats were spray-painted slightly evoking the Italian landscape.
Another highpoint of NYFW was LaPointe who sent out blazer sleeves covered in fur for a luxe yet a powerful look.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
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