New York Fashion Week review: Old Hollywood glamour meets comfort dressing
Most spring/summer 2026 collections included gender blurring silhouettes inspired by cinema and archives
The New York Fashion Week has been a showcase of paradoxes—clashing soft draping with sharp tailoring and combining pared-back elegance with unexpected details.
The Ralph Lauren show, for instance, proposed a closet that superimposed masculine and feminine touches—some of his tailored looks were styled with bandeaus as opposed to shirts. What's more, he reimagined the trousers featuring wrap-like waists of sarongs. Eckhaus Latta, too, exemplified their masterful take on tailoring with metallicised Italian suiting, which lent a worn out feel to the pieces.
Anna Sui, meanwhile, was inspired by DH Lawrence's Lady Chatterley's Lover, and so the collection evoked a subtle boudoir energy—from lace trimmed slips to tablecloth lace PJs. Besides lingerie-inspired dressing seen across the New York Fashion Week, textiles like faux fur were present across collections. Here are some trends that emerged at the fashion week:
Archival redux
Diane von Furstenberg's show brought back seminal prints from the house archive, be it the tie-dye print played out on a loose oversized knit sweater or the leopard fawn pattern seen on a trench look.
Donna Karan presented an array of sexy draped dresses with tie details along with diaphanous silks and knits. Another highpoint was the jewellery designs informed by Donna’s archive. Michael Kors, too, gave into the prevailing theme of relaxed sensuality presenting a showcase inspired by the designer’s own beach house. Fittingly enough, the venue came to life with materials like wood panelling and terracotta touches. Liquid-like, body skimming draping techniques and supple tailoring were seen in Kors' pajamas, draped culottes.
Cinematic influences
Simkhai's moodboard included reference images from the 2005 film Lords Of Dogtown. The designer also borrowed elements from swimwear silhouettes, recontextualising bodysuits in cable knits. The real pieces-de-resistance were a litany of summer dresses crafted in Guipure laces.
Known for extravagant designs, Christian Siriano also looked at old Hollywood glamour for inspiration. The designer used tulle, organza and silk to create exaggerated shapes. A case in point being a puff sleeved polka dotted mini dress, which was styled with sheer polka dotted tights and pumps.
Odd shapes
At Area, denim was a big theme. One of the key highlights was a miniskirt with a bow in the front made a pair of pants. Another visually thrilling ensemble was a dramatic evening Mac coat. The house also reimagined basketball jerseys as dresses.
Khaite’s leather-heavy lineup was punctuated with couture-like shapes, from Basque-waisted pinafore tops to double-breasted coat dresses.
Tory Burch stayed true to her preppy chic aesthetic while offering new surprises like origami-ish collared knit polos, ribbed sweaters accented with bead-like embellishments.
Statement-making fashion
Nepal-born designer Prabal Gurung incorporated his home country’s trumpet flower, a bloom synonymous with the worship of angels, into his collection. The show included mild nods to the colours of the trans pride flag.
Feather weather
Plumes have always been LaPointe's key insignias and this season too, the house delighted the audience by peppering some key looks with a generous dose of quills. The opening two sheer gray gowns underscored the atelier's intricate beading and feather trim that lent the gowns a look-at-me allure. The closing looks were a ménage à trois of bold prints, feathers, and latex. Gurung's showcase, too, wrapped up with two feather trimmed ensembles.
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