Lounge
Nikasha wants to make Khadi cooler
Summary
Label Nikasha's founder on returning to the runway after six years and why Khadi needs to be an integral part of modern-day fashion
After a gap of six years, Nikasha Tawadey Khemka, founder of the label Nikasha, will be back on the runway to showcase her latest collection, Mahboob, as part of the ongoing Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI in Mumbai.
The collection, which includes cape sets, dhoti saris and draped gowns—all in Khadi—will be presented on 27 March. “This handwoven fabric offers so much versatility, style," she says. "It keeps the heritage of the country alive and is also a symbol of deep patience."
In an interview with Lounge, she talks about the collection and Khadi's potential in modern-day fashion. Edited excerpts:
Also read: 25 years of India's fashion week
Why did you take a break from the runway?
Life has been a sort of bumpy ride these past few years. It wasn’t meant to be such a long break but I was going through a personal tragedy. But I am really excited to be back. This is a full circle moment for us, as the last show we did (Noor) was also done using Khadi.
What makes Khadi so important in modern-day fashion?
There is more emphasis on personal style nowadays. The world is gravitating towards individualism and expressing one's own identity. In this framework, the story you are conveying through your style is something that will truly help you stand out. And that's where Khadi comes in. It is a super versatile, all-season, eco-friendly fabric that's also long lasting. Through this collection, I want to convey that Khadi can be the fabric of modern-day fashion.
The Nikasha label will complete 20 years in 2026. It's always been about vibrant summer hues, statement prints, colour blocking and Indo-Western fusion wear. How do you see the brand’s design vocabulary evolve in the coming years?
W are no longer tied up to one design landscape. I think the credit goes to my diverse client base. They have pushed me to break my own boundaries and in that way the brand vocabulary has expanded. In the coming years, we hope to experiment more.
You have always promoted the idea of eco-consciousness through your work. How has been the process of including eco-friendly practices in production?
Sustainability, if we break it down, means to create an ecosystem of meaningfulness and continuity. Now, what does sustainability mean for a weaver? For a weaver, it isn’t just a practice, it's a legacy passed down through generations. Yet, this rich heritage is slowly fading and the craftsmanship is shrinking to the point where the next generation of weavers are leaving it for a better payroll. This is why we choose to buy directly from the weavers, ensuring that fair compensation reaches them.
Similarly, we often partner with women-led weaving organisations, from Kerala to Chattisgarh. Recently, we partnered with the National Association for Blind, and trained the people to create jewellery and bags.
If we just talk about Khadi, when you choose to buy it, you are not just investing in a fabric, you are supporting livelihoods, preserving a centuries-old craft, and reducing carbon footprint. Sustainability isn’t just about big actions; it can begin with a simple small step.
Fashion is at a point when trends are becoming irrelevant…
I think it’s your story which is the most precious thing you own now. Trends are very fluid in nature and that’s their strength as well as their weakness.
Why do you think fashion is currently obsessed with nostalgia?
Fashion has always thrived on revivalism. However, this time I think the connection goes deeper than that. It is about evoking emotions, a sense of identity, time and memories. Nostalgia brings a feeling of continuity, allowing the past to seamlessly blend with the present while offering a renewed appreciation for craftsmanship and heritage.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
