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Paris Fashion Week: Timeless clothes but twisted
Summary
From Louis Vuitton to Valentino, several designers presented classics with a modern twist
The recent autumn-winter 2025-26 ready-to-wear showcases in Paris reflected designers' sharp focus on creating wearable modern clothes that had ample historical references.
Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri, for instance, trained her focus on the classic white shirt, a gender-neutral garment. It came accented with a removable collar that can be worn or not depending on one's mood. The collar also nodded in favour of the Orlando ruff, inspired by the eponymous character of Virginia Woolf’s novel.
The showcase also saw the return of the J’adore Dior T-shirt signed by John Galliano. What's more, Grazia Chiuri peppered the ensembles with dematerialised crinolines, black velvet ribbons, attached with baroque pearls, bringing texture to skirts and dresses.
Another highpoint this season was Dries Van Noten collection by the newly appointed Julian Klausner, which included upturned lapels on jackets and a silk trouser suit worn with the crystal embroidered pants.
Sarah Burton's first showcase at Givenchy, too, offered some interesting looks, like an hourglass-shaped jacket with an exaggerated waist and curvaceous hips. Burton introduced a new logo, Givenchy Paris 1952, which was splashed across a mesh catsuit and on the strap of a Mary Jane shoe.
Haider Ackermann's first showing at Tom Ford was also full of past-meets-present moments. The designer superimposed his whimsical style with Ford's characteristic sensuality, serving lots of leather pieces in black and white, followed by sharp tailoring with a twist and a range of fluid fringed dresses.
Also read: Milan Fashion Week has spoken: Bold maximalism is back
Cinematic influences
Louis Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesquiere had his studio team's favourite train movies on the moodboard, besides his own list (2046, Snowpiercer, Casablanca and Ceux Qui M’aiment Prendront Le Train). The models presented trench coats, boots and capes accessorised with Vuitton trunks and belt bags.
Valentino's runway mimicked a red cinematic restroom synonymous with David Lynch's slick oeuvre. Alessandro Michele offered eccentric, maximalist ensembles, embroidered, delightfully mashed up and finished off with balaclavas and sunnies.
Historical references
The ruffled neck detailing reminiscent of the Elizabethan era was the leitmotif at Dior, as Maria Grazia had Virginia Woolf’s Orlando on her moodboard. There were also statement ruffles, Dalmatian-print capes, jacquard jackets, theatrical noir lace dresses and diaphanous button-down gowns ensheathed in bloom embroidery.
At Alexander McQueen, Sean McGirr referenced the Victorian dandies. The overall tailoring followed Victorian Gothic style, featuring elevated armholes, long and narrow sleeves, and a corset-nipped waist. Besides the suits, there were long ruffled silk dresses with their hues drawn from the poster of the 1973 movie version of Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray.
Statement-making dressing
The Louis Vuitton showcase flirted with the idea of train station platforms, thereby evoking the brand's DNA of time travel and jet set voyages. Besides the travel gear and ready to wear, the collection also dwelled upon the idea of emotions which accompany arrivals and departures, from joy to grief.
The Balmain showcase, on the other hand, included exaggerated shapes and silhouettes with cocoon shapes, pleated leather dresses and sharp collars. The Hermès show came embodied with a strong equestrian biker vibe seen across a litany of quilted jackets, turtle-necks, rider pants, trench coats and glossy black glove-leather.
Fur trimming
Faux fur and shearling has made a strong comeback for fall winter. After Milan, faux fur was present in several Paris showcases. Rabanne's extrapolation of the shaggy textile was among the best, as it complemented the leather and shine separates. Sixties inspired faux fur coats and silver-pailletted dresses made for delightful contrast of textures as well.
Fake fur tails and pom poms were seen across hanging from the dresses at both Chloe and Rabbane.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
