Everywhere you turn it seems as if celebrities and content creators are talking about the “goodness” of peptides, with many calling them the “holy grail” of anti-ageing skincare. Riding on the hype, beauty retailers such as Sephora are stocking an expanding range of peptide-based products, while brands such as COSRX have built entire product lines around the ingredient. Indian beauty brands are following suit. Amahvas’ newly launched face serum is infused with milk peptides; d’you’s serum contains seven peptides; Lakmé has a peptide in its lip gloss stain; and a Brillare scalp serum has multiple peptides.

These products promise everything from firmer, plumper skin and smoother fine lines to brighter complexions, shinier hair and less puffy eyes.

But what exactly is a peptide?

At their simplest, peptides are small molecules made up of short sequences of amino acids. They occur naturally in our body, where they perform a range of functions, from hormone regulation to collagen production and skin repair. Endorphins, which are involved in the body’s response to pain and stress, are peptides, as are hormones such as insulin and oxytocin. Scientists can also create peptides in laboratories for use in medicines and cosmetics.

“Peptides work by sending signals to skin cells. This leads to producing new collagen and elastin in ageing skin,” says Madhuri Agarwal, dermatologist and founder of Yavana Skin and Hair Clinic, Mumbai. “Certain peptides also help in balancing skin oil, help strengthen the skin barrier and soothe inflamed skin.”

Peptides are most commonly associated with ageing concerns because collagen production naturally slows as we get older. “If collagen are the workers of the skin, peptides are like messages that help guide those workers,” says Dinyar Workingboxwalla, celebrity skin expert and co-founder of the BiE Beauty brand. “They do not replace the skin’s natural processes; they support them.”

That is also why not all peptides work in the same way. Broadly, skincare peptides fall into four groups: signal peptides, which support collagen and firmness; carrier peptides, such as copper peptides, which help in skin repair; enzyme-inhibiting peptides, which aim to slow the breakdown of collagen and elastin; and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, which are often compared with Botox.

The last comparison, however, comes with a caveat. Topical peptides cannot replicate the effect of an injectable treatment, which works directly on muscle activity. At best, they may have a subtle effect on the appearance of expression lines. And with peptides, the ingredient name alone tells you little—the type of peptide, its concentration and formulation all influence how well it performs.

UNDERSTANDING THEIR USE

When it comes to pigmentation, a common concern for Indian skin, peptides may offer some support by helping calm inflammation, but they are not first-line treatments, says Dr Agarwal. For concerns such as dark spots, vitamin C, tranexamic acid and azelaic acid have a stronger role.

Peptides are generally well tolerated and can easily fit into a broader skincare routine, particularly alongside barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide and hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid. But combining multiple ingredients can sometimes cause irritation, so the overall formulation and individual skin type matter.

Peptides are also making their way into in-clinic treatments. They are being used alongside procedures such as microneedling and radiofrequency, where tiny channels created in the skin can help topical formulations reach deeper layers. “In certain procedures, specific growth-factor peptides with hyaluronic acid boosters are combined to support collagen remodelling. Post-laser and post-peel is also where peptide serums are applied to support healing and reduce inflammation,” says Dr Agarwal.

THE ROLE OF SUPPLEMENTS

There is still no easy way for consumers to know how effective a particular peptide is, or how much evidence sits behind the claims on its label. If you want to try one, experts recommend opting for established brands and consulting a dermatologist to find out what is best suited to your skin.

So, are peptides the anti-ageing miracle they are made out to be? Not quite. Think of them as supporting players rather than miracle workers.

“As I said, our body naturally produces many different peptides that play important roles in skin function. To make them, the body needs adequate protein, amino acids, vitamins and minerals from our diet. But eating protein-rich foods or taking collagen supplements is not the same as using topical peptides,” says Dr Workingboxwalla. “Nutrition supports healthy skin from within, while topical peptides are designed to provide more targeted support at the skin level. One provides the foundation, while the other offers additional support.”

In other words, peptides can play a supporting role in skincare, but their effectiveness depends on the formulation. The foundations of good skin, whether you are targeting ageing or simply trying to keep it healthy, remain the same: a well-balanced diet, daily sunscreen and a good moisturiser.

Dhara Vora Sabhnani is a Mumbai-based journalist.

Everywhere you turn it seems as if celebrities and content creators are talking about the “goodness” of peptides, with many calling them the “holy grail” of anti-ageing skincare. Riding on the hype, beauty retailers such as Sephora are stocking an expanding range of peptide-based products, while brands such as COSRX have built entire product lines around the ingredient. Indian beauty brands are following suit. Amahvas’ newly launched face serum is infused with milk peptides; d’you’s serum contains seven peptides; Lakmé has a peptide in its lip gloss stain; and a Brillare scalp serum has multiple peptides.

These products promise everything from firmer, plumper skin and smoother fine lines to brighter complexions, shinier hair and less puffy eyes.

But what exactly is a peptide?

At their simplest, peptides are small molecules made up of short sequences of amino acids. They occur naturally in our body, where they perform a range of functions, from hormone regulation to collagen production and skin repair. Endorphins, which are involved in the body’s response to pain and stress, are peptides, as are hormones such as insulin and oxytocin. Scientists can also create peptides in laboratories for use in medicines and cosmetics.

“Peptides work by sending signals to skin cells. This leads to producing new collagen and elastin in ageing skin,” says Madhuri Agarwal, dermatologist and founder of Yavana Skin and Hair Clinic, Mumbai. “Certain peptides also help in balancing skin oil, help strengthen the skin barrier and soothe inflamed skin.”

Peptides are most commonly associated with ageing concerns because collagen production naturally slows as we get older. “If collagen are the workers of the skin, peptides are like messages that help guide those workers,” says Dinyar Workingboxwalla, celebrity skin expert and co-founder of the BiE Beauty brand. “They do not replace the skin’s natural processes; they support them.”

That is also why not all peptides work in the same way. Broadly, skincare peptides fall into four groups: signal peptides, which support collagen and firmness; carrier peptides, such as copper peptides, which help in skin repair; enzyme-inhibiting peptides, which aim to slow the breakdown of collagen and elastin; and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, which are often compared with Botox.

The last comparison, however, comes with a caveat. Topical peptides cannot replicate the effect of an injectable treatment, which works directly on muscle activity. At best, they may have a subtle effect on the appearance of expression lines. And with peptides, the ingredient name alone tells you little—the type of peptide, its concentration and formulation all influence how well it performs.

UNDERSTANDING THEIR USE

When it comes to pigmentation, a common concern for Indian skin, peptides may offer some support by helping calm inflammation, but they are not first-line treatments, says Dr Agarwal. For concerns such as dark spots, vitamin C, tranexamic acid and azelaic acid have a stronger role.

Peptides are generally well tolerated and can easily fit into a broader skincare routine, particularly alongside barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide and hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid. But combining multiple ingredients can sometimes cause irritation, so the overall formulation and individual skin type matter.

Peptides are also making their way into in-clinic treatments. They are being used alongside procedures such as microneedling and radiofrequency, where tiny channels created in the skin can help topical formulations reach deeper layers. “In certain procedures, specific growth-factor peptides with hyaluronic acid boosters are combined to support collagen remodelling. Post-laser and post-peel is also where peptide serums are applied to support healing and reduce inflammation,” says Dr Agarwal.

THE ROLE OF SUPPLEMENTS

There is still no easy way for consumers to know how effective a particular peptide is, or how much evidence sits behind the claims on its label. If you want to try one, experts recommend opting for established brands and consulting a dermatologist to find out what is best suited to your skin.

So, are peptides the anti-ageing miracle they are made out to be? Not quite. Think of them as supporting players rather than miracle workers.

“As I said, our body naturally produces many different peptides that play important roles in skin function. To make them, the body needs adequate protein, amino acids, vitamins and minerals from our diet. But eating protein-rich foods or taking collagen supplements is not the same as using topical peptides,” says Dr Workingboxwalla. “Nutrition supports healthy skin from within, while topical peptides are designed to provide more targeted support at the skin level. One provides the foundation, while the other offers additional support.”

In other words, peptides can play a supporting role in skincare, but their effectiveness depends on the formulation. The foundations of good skin, whether you are targeting ageing or simply trying to keep it healthy, remain the same: a well-balanced diet, daily sunscreen and a good moisturiser.

Dhara Vora Sabhnani is a Mumbai-based journalist.