Shantnu and Nikhil revive the 70s with a modern twist

For its latest couture show, designer brand Shantanu & Nikhil decided to blend nostalgia with innovation, drawing inspiration from the 1970s. While actor Zeenat Aman opened the show on 9 August at Delhi's Piano Man jazz club and Saba Azad and Imaad Shah presented nu-disco and Harlem swing, over 50 models presented Studio Mix, a collection of garments that had a retro feel with a modern flair.

“The allure of prints, bell bottoms, and the overall vibe of that beautiful era influenced our mood-board significantly,” said Shantanu Mehra. "Music uplifts and transports the audience, creating an immersive experience that perfectly complements our fashion shows."

In the past, the designers have collaborated with artistes like Farhan Akhtar and band Parvaaz, for their fashion showcases.

For the recent Delhi show, the duo also joined hands with vodka maker Grey Goose to launch a collection of bar accessories. Talking about the collaboration, Grey Goose's Mahesh Kanchan said: “As Indian consumers increasingly seek exclusive experiences for self-expression, we recognised a distinctive opportunity to craft unforgettable moments where French sophistication meets the signature modern Indian aesthetics.”

Also read: The intimacy of a solo fashion show

In an interview with Lounge, Shantanu and Nikhil talk about the collection, the importance of a showstopper and why trends are secondary to the brand. Edited excerpts:

Your collection uses variations of the classic motif, paisley…

Shantanu: As a maison, we specialise in surface ornamentations. In this season's paisley motifs, we have preserved the essence and shape of the paisley, but the intricate artwork inside it is inspired by our deep admiration for architecture.

Nikhil: We have amalgamated various surface ornamentation techniques to create multiple interpretations of paisley, including embroidered leather paisleys, which is a signature Shantnu & Nikhil element. This trend showcases paisley in many ways, making it a standout feature of the collection.

Who are the fashion icons that inform the collection?

Shantanu: The 1970s was a time of bold experimentation and individual expression in fashion, heavily influenced by icons like David Bowie, Halston, Bianca Jagger, and Diane von Furstenberg. David Bowie's androgynous and avant-garde style broke gender norms and inspired a generation to embrace bold patterns and metallic fabrics. Halston's minimalist yet sophisticated designs epitomised the disco era's sleek, glamorous aesthetic, often seen on socialites like Bianca Jagger, whose daring style and tailored suits made her a symbol of 70s nightlife.

Meanwhile, Diane von Furstenberg revolutionised women's fashion with her iconic wrap dress, embodying the era's spirit of independence and effortless chic. Together, these icons shaped a vibrant and eclectic fashion landscape, blending glamour, casualness, and an adventurous spirit.

What textiles and textures did you use to bring alive the nostalgia of the 70s?

Nikhil: We've always played an evolved game in menswear, and this collection is us coming back to all our core elements. There's a retro glam vibe with a cocktail feel. We have revived nostalgia with our new printed silk shirts that resonate deeply with the 70s era. The collection features a plethora of prints on luxurious silks, new iterations of bell-bottom shapes with tonal embroideries and textures, and innovative collar shapes. This season is all about silhouettes, showcasing new-age ruffles in tuxedos and shirts, paired with our beloved paisleys. Additionally, we have introduced new sartorial fabrics with pinstripes, incorporating a twist of 70s punk.

Sidharth Malhotra closed the show for you. How relevant is the presence of a celebrity showstopper at a physical showcase?

Shantanu: A showstopper should embody the true essence of a brand while bringing their unique appeal to the runway. For instance, when Kareena Kapoor Khan walked for us in 2019, her presence amplified the collection's impact. We look for a synergy between our core values and the artist's approach to ensure a powerful connection with the audience.

You have always stayed trend neutral. Are trends irrelevant for you?

Nikhil: For us, trends and fads are secondary. We have always focused on creating pieces that tell a story and evoke a sense of heritage and individuality. While we are aware of current trends, we prefer to interpret them in a way that aligns with our brand ethos.

Shantanu: For this collection, for instance, we’ve manipulated an era as iconic as the 70s, where street meets couture, and our signature drapes and fits shine through. This approach ensures that our collections remain unique and enduring, transcending temporary fashion cycles.

Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.

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