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From the Oyster to the Jubilee: The importance of wristwatch bracelets
Summary
When it comes to wristwatches, while movements and dials dominate the conversation, a stylish bracelet can make all the difference
These days, a mechanical wristwatch functions primarily as jewellery, signifying refinement but not doing anything that your phone can’t. A watch is an extension of personal style, a symbol of craftsmanship and, for many, an object of deep fascination. But there’s more to the appeal than just the way the watch case and dial looks.
Enter the watch bracelet. While movements, case designs and dials often dominate the conversation, the bracelet can be just as definitive. A well-crafted steel bracelet complements a watch, making the overall effect more seamless. Whether evoking robustness, elegance or sheer practicality, steel bracelets have become indispensable in horological design.
From the industrial prowess of Rolex’s Oyster bracelets to the relative complexity of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak ones, steel bracelets come in a variety of forms, each with its own story, construction method and aesthetic intent. To the casual observer, they may seem like mere variations of the same concept, but to the watch enthusiast, they represent different engineering and design philosophies.
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Let’s explore some of the most significant types of steel watch bracelets that have shaped modern watchmaking.
The Oyster Bracelet
One cannot discuss steel bracelets without beginning with the three-link Rolex oyster bracelet. First introduced in the 1930s, it is arguably the most recognizable and widely used steel bracelet in watchmaking. Comprising flat, three-piece links, the oyster bracelet is renowned for its balance between robustness and comfort.
The broad central link flanked by two smaller links creates a sporty and refined profile. Over the decades, Rolex has continuously refined its construction, incorporating solid links and improved clasps, ensuring security and longevity.
The versatility of the oyster bracelet is what sets it apart. It is equally at home on a Submariner, a GMT-Master, or even a dressier Datejust. Its uncluttered, toolish aesthetic makes it the go-to choice for a look that combines function and form. Many brands have adopted and adapted this design, and these days, the oyster-style three-link bracelet is a firm part of watch design language.
The Jubilee Bracelet
If the oyster bracelet is about rugged practicality, the jubilee bracelet is about refinement. First used by Rolex in 1945 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary, the jubilee bracelet introduced a more intricate and visually richer five-piece link construction. Its polished centre links and brushed outer links exude elegance through the juxtaposition of brushed and polished surfaces, making it a perfect companion for dressier watches.
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While the jubilee is often associated with dressy watches, it has also found a place on sportier models. The increased articulation of its smaller links provides an unmatched level of comfort, draping around the wrist with light, smooth fluidity. Unlike the robust, no-nonsense feel of the oyster bracelet, the jubilee catches the light and creates a play of reflections depending on the light conditions.
The President Bracelet
Once reserved for Rolex’s most prestigious models, such as the Day-Date, the president bracelet amps up the glamour tof the jubilee’s refinement. Featuring a three-piece semi-circular link construction, it sits between the oyster’s strength and the jubilee’s elegance. Unlike the elongated, flat links of the oyster, the president bracelet has shorter, rounded links that create an almost liquid-like movement across the wrist.
The bracelet’s exclusivity and association with some of the most influential figures in history have cemented its status as a symbol of affluence. Unlike the utilitarian ethos of the oyster, the president bracelet is meant to be noticed, and doesn’t shy away from denoting status.
Integrated Bracelets
The integrated steel bracelet is a marvel of contemporary watch design, where the bracelet is not merely an accessory but an extension of the watch itself. Pioneered by Audemars Piguet with the Royal Oak in 1972 and later by Patek Philippe's Nautilus and Vacheron Constantin's Overseas, integrated bracelets are designed in harmony with the case, ensuring an uninterrupted aesthetic flow.
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Unlike traditional bracelets attached to lugs (but can be swapped out for straps), integrated bracelets fuse with the case architecture, creating a seamless look. These bracelets often feature complex finishing techniques, with brushed and polished surfaces juxtaposed to create an intricate interplay of textures. The Royal Oak's bracelet, in particular, is a masterpiece of engineering, with bevelled edges and an almost silky articulation, making it one of the most comfortable bracelets to wear.
Milanese and Mesh Bracelets
Though not as common as the solid-link bracelets, milanese and mesh bracelets offer a distinctive alternative. Originating from 19th-century milanese chainmail techniques, the style of these bracelets uses tightly woven metal links to create a flexible and breathable band. Unlike the bulkier solid-link designs, milanese bracelets contour smoothly around the wrist, making them a popular choice for vintage-inspired and dress watches.
Among well-known brands, Omega frequently use milanese bracelets in their Seamaster collection, providing a retro-futuristic aesthetic that recalls mid-century diving watches. These bracelets are a testament to the fact that steel can be just as luxurious and supple as leather, without sacrificing durability.
The Beads of Rice Bracelet
A staple of 1950s bracelet design, and favoured at various times by brands such as Patek Philippe and Longines, the beads of rice bracelet is subtle and sophisticated. Characterized by its tiny, rounded central links flanked by larger, brushed outer links, it offers a unique combination of visual texture and comfort. These “mid-century modern" bracelets—a distinctive mid-20th century design—are a feature for microbrands like Lorier, apart from well-established looks like that of Doxa dive watches.
More than just a bracelet
A watch bracelet is not merely a means of securing a timepiece to the wrist; it is a defining feature that influences comfort, durability and aesthetics. Steel bracelets, in particular, are a perfect blend of elegance, functionality and design.
So the next time you are looking to buy a watch, my advice would be to pay attention to the bracelet as well. Here are some excellent online businesses where you can buy excellent aftermarket bracelets: Uncle Straps (unclestraps.com), Long Island Watch (longislandwatch.com), and Strapcode (strapcode.com).
Handwound is a monthly column on watches and watchmaking.
