What do men want to wear now? Something really cool and fun
The recently concluded Pitti Uomo menswear show tells us that menswear is undergoing a big transformation
Pitti Uomo is by far the most spectacular bi-annual menswear trade show, which takes place in the scenic Italian city of Florence.
The B2B event sees a litany of menswear exhibitors, buyers, editors, influencers and photographers showing up in the finest bespoke ensembles preening and posing on the wall of Vitti (inside the historic Fortezza da Basso). The recently concluded edition saw a splash of vibrant summer street style, with Pitti peacocks showing up in a delicious array of elegant summer suits, covetable accessories, drool-worthy jewellery, dapper headgears and bespoke shoes. While the winter edition is usually marked by a push on textural layering and a decidedly subdued colour scheme, the scorching summer edition sees a clash of prints, patterns, scarves and trainers. From hipsters flashing their nifty tattoos to dandies styling their scarves with a studied nonchalance, the street style radiates the spirit of sprezzatura (studied carelessness). As they say, in order to break the sartorial rules, you need to master them first and Pitti men know it like no one else. One look at the street-style imagery pouring in from Florence and it's hard not to get transfixed by their rings, necklaces, bracelets, baseball and bowler hats. What is it about Pitti style which makes it emblematic of sartorial cool? We speak to designers:
Also Read: The macho man loves jewellery too
Designer Rudraksh Dwivedi likes the unique stir of retro, minimalistic and modern elements this season. "These peacocks (the dapper dudes) are birthing something nostalgic yet they're fresh in their approach to dressing. One of my major takeaways from the recent show is to be able to play with a neutral colour palette with an acute attention to detail, be it the cargo pockets on a dinner jacket or adjustable waist straps on a pair of tailored trousers," he says.
Pitti Uomo is about reflecting one's own individual style statement and the bespoke tailoring that one sees on all Pitti men is a fun and thoughtful way to put together a look.
Designer Kunal Anil Tanna shares, "From chic to dapper to experimental - all aspects of menswear bespoke tailoring were on display in this summer edition. Their take on bespoke exemplifies understanding an individual's body type and tailoring as per it. It's not a typical Business to Business situation. You can see extremely well dressed men who are walking talking versions of a made to measure approach to dressing. Moreover, well trimmed beards and stubbles, besides the amazing body tattoos add to the allure," says he.
The trade show is an amalgamation of classic tailored crisp linen suit styles and unique street touches. It is so much about freedom to showcase your personal style.
Designer Rachit Khanna points out that the USP of the event is there is no cookie-cutter format of dressing. "From pastels suits to catchy Hawaiian print shirts paired with white chinos or linen shorts worn with most amazing panama hats and totes or light jackets worn with well-fitted pants, each look is individualistic. Accessories like the bright-coloured scarves add to their multi-layered appeal," he says.
Khanna observes that it's high time men broke the dated codes of dressing, like wearing a plain shirt with dress pants. "Summer bespoke tailoring is all about relaxed styles and a play of mix and match separates," he adds.
Dandies smoking cigars while rocking their chicest summer knits of the season to belting their micro shorts with statement belts, Pitti street style is a far cry from the brand driven looks seen at Milan and Paris.
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First Published:30 Jun 2022, 04:46 PM IST
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