Say hello to ‘psycare’, the skincare category that blends beauty with wellness

“Beyond deeply rooted medical conditions, we see that stress, anxiety, low mood or periods of emotional suppression can aggravate issues like eczema, psoriasis, acne, and accelerate signs of ageing," says Deepti Chandy, therapist and COO of Anna Chandy & Associates, Bengaluru. “When we push our feelings down, the body often finds a way to speak—and the skin is frequently where we first notice it. Conversely, when we nurture our mental and emotional well-being, we often see visible improvements in skin health," Chandy explains. “Emotional health accounts for 25-30 per cent of skin health outcomes."

Certain botanicals in products such as mists, oils and cleansers tend to have small-to-moderate yet immediate effects on our state of mind when inhaled, notes Pritesh Asher, co-founder and CEO of Juicy Chemistry headquartered in Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu. “While the extent of their impact depends on factors like dosage, context, and individual preferences, it’s important to remember that these ingredients only support relief, and are not medical treatments in themselves," he says, listing out some well-known herbs and flowers that the brand uses. “Damask rose is calming and mood-elevating, rosemary promotes alertness and mental clarity and vanilla brings comfort and “snug" warmth. There’s preclinical work that suggests that vanilla has antidepressant-like effects," Asher shares.

FRAGRANCES THAT HEAL

Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder and medical director of Yavana Skin & Hair Clinic, Mumbai concurs that psychodermatology-powered products can have a calming impact. Citing general research findings she says, “Lavender and chamomile oils have demonstrated anxiety-reducing (anxiolytic) properties, magnesium-infused products may effectively alleviate muscle tension and support nervous system relaxation, and CBD (where legally permitted) does exhibit anti-inflammatory properties and may contribute to stress reduction."

Recalling the case of a 32-year-old new mother who developed adult acne and facial eczema three months postpartum, Agarwal says, “Since standard treatments were mostly ineffective, I prescribed medication for acne and eczema, and a night-time routine of a chamomile cleansing wash and magnesium moisturizer. After six weeks, her skin clarity improved and the evening ritual boosted her well-being." While Agarwal may have nursed skepticism initially, her personal experience has changed her views on psychodermatology. “I experimented with lavender-scented skincare in the evenings instead of fragrance-free products. Over three months of alternating routines, I consistently experienced better sleep and reduced facial tension, though the improvements were subtle. That said, I am not entirely sure about the impact on skin ," she confesses.

Actor Rashmika Mandanna believes in the intangible power of fragrances on our moods. “Fragrance has this invisible yet undeniable ability to shift how we carry ourselves. I’ve always believed that a certain note or blend can act like a shield helping you step into a room with confidence, or pull you back into a safe space when you need comfort," she says. When it came to launching her line of fragrances, Dear Diary, Mandanna found herself diving deep into her childhood and early memories of comfort to come up with signature formulations that use ingredients like mandarin, sandalwood and starfruit.

K-BEAUTY FOR THE SENSES

This conversation around buzzy mood-enhancing skincare would be incomplete without any mention of Korean beauty, or K-beauty. In K-beauty, the mood-changing effects of skincare are approached from the perspective of science. Korean formulators are increasingly exploring the skin-brain connection and neurocosmetics.

“Ingredients like green tea (rich in L theanine) help reduce stress markers, while fermented extracts such as lactobacillus found in kombucha are being studied for their role in the microbiome-mood axis. Ginseng, a cornerstone of traditional Korean medicine, is known to energize the body and improve mental alertness and resilience. Similarly, Centella asiatica (known in India as gotu kola) is being reframed as not just a wound-healing ingredient, but as one that calms both your skin and mind," explains Zoya Ali, brand expert and digital creator for skincare brand Innisfree.

From a sensory perspective, both fragrance and texture of the products play a vital role in influencing emotions, notes Ali. “Ingredients such as lavender, chamomile, and rose are well known for their calming, stress-relieving aromas, making them ideal for evening or night care rituals. Citrus extracts like yuzu, bergamot, and orange are often used in daytime skincare products for their uplifting, energizing notes that awaken the senses," she explains. As for textures, Ali points out how the velvety comfort of Centella-rich balms or the light gel freshness of green tea-based formulas, can signal safety and indulgence to the user.

INTUITIVE CARE

“I previously had eczema and what I’d noticed was that my skin began to improve when I sought support for my mental health alongside dermatological care," shares Chandy who believes that tactile treatments such as facials, warm packs, or massages offer more than just physical relief. “The act of caring for your skin, and receiving comforting touch, can be deeply therapeutic, soothing both the body and mind, if one is comfortable with touch."

Of course, when you are clobbered with information from everywhere, it’s natural to wonder if there truly is an innate relationship between one’s mental wellness, complexion and skin health? Or is it just hype?

Malvika Jain, founder and CEO of psychodermatology beauty brand Sereko believes our lifestyles warrant these products. “The truth is your skin doesn’t just ‘look stressed’... it is stressed. When we are anxious, not sleeping well, or constantly running on adrenaline, our skin reflects that internal state: breakouts flare, pigmentation deepens, the skin barrier deteriorates and sensitivity levels shoot up." Going by her own experience, Jain feels that psychodermatological products work because they aid in calming the nervous system and, by extension, the skin.

“Certain natural actives, also known as adaptogens, have been studied for their stress-reducing impact on the skin and mind. Clinical studies have demonstrated that combining them effectively in formulations can help regulate stress by reducing cortisol production and enhancing serotonin output, which in turn promotes skin recovery," adds Dr M Jafferany, psychodermatologist at Sereko. From a psychodermatology perspective, this evidence is significant. “It shows how biological stress management can translate into visible skin improvement, offering a dual therapeutic effect," notes Jafferany.

With growing research linking the effects of skincare on our moods, what does the future hold? “While skincare may not treat depression, mindful application can lower cortisol and improve skin health. The future involves combining scientific and psychological approaches with clear expectations," says Agarwal.

Shilpi Madan is a Mumbai-based writer. She posts @ShilpiMadan.