Mumbai to Alibaug: In perfect harmony

Awarm breeze hit my face through the open window as our car steadily bumped along the red mud road. All my husband, daughter and I had for company were soaring coconut trees and the blue sky. Apart from a handful of people working on their farms, and a small group of pigtailed girls on bicycles, there was virtually no one around.

Life seemed to have slowed down magically in Alibaug and it was hard to imagine that chaotic Mumbai was only a 50-minute ferry ride away. Home to sprawling bungalows, many of which are owned by Mumbai’s industrial families and movie personalities, this sleepy town in Maharashtra’s Raigad district is a popular pick for a weekend getaway.

As tempting as it was to sit back in a lounge chair outside our tent and enjoy the tranquil surroundings of the luxury campsite, we decided to step out as soon as we arrived. After a quick snack of thalipeeth (a roti made with multigrain flour and spices) and thecha (a chutney made with garlic and chillies), we headed out to explore Alibaug’s flourishing art scene.

Our first stop was The Guild, an art gallery run by Mumbai-based gallerist Shalini Sawhney. Housed in a simple village home, it features contemporary Indian art and photography. Further away, near the centre of town, is architect and designer Pinakin Patel’s home. Next to it is a museum that he has built in honour of his long-time friend Dashrath Patel, the founding director of the National Institute of Design. The museum provides a rare opportunity to see Dashrath Patel’s work; he seldom exhibited his art.

While most visitors to Alibaug never make it to the town centre, as almost all the beaches and stay options are in the villages surrounding it, we made the trip to have the fish thali at Hotel Sanman that evening.

The town is also known for its still-functioning Jewish synagogue, which we set out to see the next morning. Years ago, there were a sizeable number of Jews in the area; today, only a handful remain. Legend has it that 2,000 years ago, a ship sank off the Konkan coast, and the survivors, Bene Israeli Jews, made their home here.

For another fascinating peek into Alibaug’s history, take a boat or wade through the sea at low tide and visit the 17th century Kolaba Fort, 2km away from Alibaug beach. It was from here that Maratha admiral Kanhoji Angre fought several successful battles against British and Portuguese ships.

The long coastline offers many beach options. The rocky Kihim beach is popular with locals; this is where India’s “birdman”, Salim Ali, lived briefly in the 1930s. Mandwa beach, near the jetty, is the perfect spot for water sports such as banana-boat rides, kayaking, jet skiing, paddle boarding and bumper-boat rides. We, however, were seeking quietude and Awas beach, a 10-minute car ride away, proved to be the ideal pick.

By the end of our trip, we realized that though Alibaug might seem nondescript, its undeniable rural charm draws those looking for space and solitude, the perfect combination to nurture creativity.

Mumbai to Alibaug

Distance: 98km
Time: 3 hours

Route: Take National Highway 66 till Wadhkal and turn right towards Alibaug. Or, take a ferry from the Gateway of India to Mandwa jetty (tickets, starting from Rs85)

Stay: Bohemyan Blue Stay; tariff for double occupancy starting from Rs4,500, breakfast included

Top tip: Visit Mayur Bakery on Tilak Road for date and cashew cakes

Weekend Vacations offers suggestions on getaways that allow for short breaks from metros.

Chaitali Patel tweets from @07Chaitali.