Legendary mountaineer Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja declared dead in avalanche on PoK peak

Legendary Nepali mountaineer Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja has been declared dead in an avalanche at Broad Peak in northern Pakistan. The news of his demise was confirmed by Elite Exped, Purja's adventure company, in an Instagram post on Saturday, August 1.

He was among 10 climbers who went missing after an avalanche struck them on Friday.

“Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja, tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” Elite Exped said in a social media post.

The company also confirmed that the other members of the expedition “sadly did not survive” and said, “Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy, including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa.”

Purja's company offered condolences to the families of the avalanche victims and asked all to “respect their privacy”.

“Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones. No words can ease the pain of this unimaginable loss, and we ask that everyone respects their privacy as they grieve,” it said in a statement.

What happened?

Broad Peak, standing at 8,051 metres, is located in Pakistan's Karakoram range near K2. It is the world's 12th-highest mountain and is considered one of the most challenging peaks to climb.

The expedition comprised five Nepali climbers, Omani climber Nathira Ahmed, American climber Mallory Geis, Pakistani climber Sohail Sakhi, a Chinese climber identified only as Wang and one other foreign climber, according to the Alpine Club.

The climbers lost contact with their base camp after an avalanche struck Broad Peak while they were attempting to scale the mountain, said Karrar Haidri, vice president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan.

“The team was out of communication since Thursday,” said Haidri.

Experienced Pakistani climbers and army helicopters took part in the search-and-rescue operation.

About Nirmal Purja

British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja was regarded as one of the world's leading high-altitude mountaineers.

A former member of Britain's Brigade of Gurkhas and the Royal Marines' elite Special Boat Service, the 43-year-old has set several mountaineering records since becoming a full-time climber and expedition guide.

He climbed the world’s 14 highest peaks in a record 189 days in 2019, an achievement featured in the Netflix documentary, “14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible.” His record was surpassed in 2023.

“The world has lost one of mountaineering's greatest climbers; a leader who inspired millions through his courage, humility and unwavering belief that human potential is far greater than we often imagine,” Elite Exped said of Purja. “More than his extraordinary achievements, he wanted to show the world what was possible when you dared to dream bigger, believed in yourself and refused to accept limitations.”

Nepal PM offers condolences

Nepal Prime Minister Balen Shah offered condolences on the 'tragic' death of Purja and other climbers.

“The tragic death of six Nepalese and four other foreign climbers, including world record holder Nirmal Purja, in the Karakoram mountain range of Pakistan, has shocked us,” he said in a statement on social media.

“The physical journey of all the deceased climbers... has been interrupted, but the history of their courage, dedication, and contributions will always remain inspiring.”