The Maha Kumbh Mela 2025 has transformed Prayagraj into a spiritual spectacle, drawing millions of devotees to the sacred banks of the Ganga. The sights and sounds of the 45-day Maha Kumbh Mela 2025, with a sea of devotees converging in Prayagraj, transport me back to 2016 when I experienced the spiritual grandeur of the Simhasth Kumbh Mela in Ujjain (held once every 12 years).
The Maha Kumbh Mela, a once-in-a-144-year spiritual event for Hindus, began on January 13, 2025, and will continue until February 26, 2025, in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, on the banks of the Ganga River.
News stories and images of lakhs of devotees, alongside sadhus and sadhvis, remind me of my time at the Simhasth Kumbh Mela. Unlike the freezing temperatures now, the 2016 event was in the peak summer season.
Kumbh Mela nostalgically reminds me of all those Hindi movies where children get separated from their families in Kumbh only to be reunited years later. So, when my parents inquired if I wanted to attend the Kumbh in Ujjain with them, my travel bug could not resist this wonderful opportunity.
Notwithstanding the over 40°C temperatures, we set out daily to tour the many grand akhadas (pandals) where swamis and sadhvis, with their disciples from across the country and the world, congregated for the month-long religious communion called Simhasth 2016 on the banks of the Shipra river in Ujjain.
The trip was more memorable because we were in the company of the spiritual head of our Mahdi Bagh community, Sydena Moulana Amiruddin Malak Saheb. He was specially invited by Swami Avdheshanand Giri (head or Mahamandaleshwar of the Juna Akhada and the Chief Head of the Simhasth) to inaugurate the nine-day ‘Ram Katha’ discourse by Murari Bapu.
Every akhada where Moulana Amiruddin Malak Saheb visited, He was accorded the utmost respect and was immediately invited for a personal audience with the swami. It was indeed a divine example of tolerance and communal harmony. As about 100 of us followed Him, we also got invited to partake in their bhandara (prasad), where they served basic yet extremely hygienic and tasty vegetarian food.
We were the cynosure of all when we hired about 25 e-rickshaws one evening and moved in a kind of convoy touring the many akhadas (some very large, some small). Many motorists and bystanders curiously kept looking at the lot of us as we passed by babas with fancy titles like ‘Environement baba’, ‘Pilot baba’, the tantriks, the aghoris (they engage in post-mortem rituals), the kinners (transgenders) and the naga babas. Some babas had been standing on one leg for many years, and some had one arm in the air.
We also walked around the many ghats. Ram Ghat on the Shipra River is where the shahi snaan takes place on the first day of the Simhasth and is considered the holiest. Many such ghats were built along the river to divert the devout and the crowds of curious tourists and onlookers so all could take a dip in the river. Temporarily made bridges across the banks of this wide river facilitated the quick movement of people. Strategically placed fountains in the middle of the river and water spraying from the bridge created a kind of mist, keeping the place cool despite the burning sun and high temperatures during the day. At night, the banks of the river were brightly lit up with colourful lights, adding to the festive atmosphere.
This time, I visited Ujjain for four days, and I can honestly say that this experience will last a lifetime. To witness the magnanimity of the event and the bhakti of people from all walks of life is worth seeing.
There has always been religious harmony in India—love and affection between different religions. These past few days symbolised the most ideal example of living in harmony in our pluralistic country.
The Kumbh Mela is held in Ujjain once every 12 years when Jupiter “enters” Leo or simha. Hence, the Ujjain Mela is known as the Simhasth Kumbh Mela and was held from April 22 to May 6 2016.
Apart from its current significance, the city has a large population from all religious communities. The narrow by-lanes of Ujjain city are famous for their old architecture with intricately carved doorways and windows.
There is also a huge bangle market. A wide array of food—both sumptuous vegetarian and non-vegetarian—is widely available. The sight of the big kadhai with gulab jamuns simmering away in the sweet sugar syrup is a sight for a connoisseur.
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