New Delhi: State drug inspectors will be able to conduct surprise audits of spas, salons, and massage centres for the first time, targeting a surge in unauthorised medical procedures sold as beauty treatments in a $20 billion industry that has operated with little regulatory check, according to three government officials aware of the development.
The crackdown follows a directive from the Drug Controller General of India (DCGI) clarifying that injectables fall outside the legal definition of cosmetics. Officials say salon workers have increasingly been administering treatments such as glutathione infusions directly into clients' bloodstreams, in violation of the Cosmetics Rules, 2020 of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940, without medical oversight.
“We plan to enforce quality-assurance standards, verifying that cosmetic manufacturers are producing safe, genuine products and maintaining regulatory compliance,” said a state drug regulator, one of the three people cited above requesting anonymity.
There are several health risks associated with these procedures, with dermatologists warning that injecting unregulated substances in non-sterile environments can trigger anaphylaxis, severe infections, liver or renal damage, and cardiac events. Glutathione, a compound widely marketed in Indian salons for skin whitening, is approved domestically only for the management of liver toxicity during chemotherapy.
The Indian Association of Dermatologists, Venereologists and Leprologists (IADVL) has flagged the threat of ‘parlour quackery’ to the central health ministry, demanding structural intervention against unauthorized clinical practices in luxury retail spaces. DCGI has also received independent complaints from consumers.
“The administration of such treatments by unauthorized personnel in non-medical environments like beauty salons or hotel spas is entirely outside the law,” said another state regulator, the second of the three people mentioned above, who also did not want to be named.
Under the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940, and the Cosmetics Rules, 2020, administering prescription-grade injectables without a medical license in an unapproved facility is a criminal offense. Establishments can face immediate sealing, cancellation of trade/manufacturing licenses, and operators can face prosecution for stocking unapproved drugs and practicing medicine without registration, which carries prison terms ranging from three to five years.
Regulatory trigger
The drive is significant for India's beauty sector. Inspectors will verify documentation, batch numbers, product labelling, and staff qualifications across brands and service providers. The government has indicated that the blurring of cosmetic and medical boundaries in commercial wellness spaces will not be condoned.
Cosmetics and personal care products constitute the second-largest segment of the sector, accounting for 26% of the industry's record-high turnover of ₹23,021 crore, according to a 2025 report by the Indian Direct Selling Association (IDSA).
India’s spas, salons, and massage centres have a market size of $11.65 billion, according to market research firms like Custom Market Insights and Ken Research.
Dermatologists say that using unregulated skincare commodities carries medical risks.
Dr Dinesh Kumar Devaraj, former president of the Indian Association of Dermatologists, Venereologists and Leprologists, Tamil Nadu, said, “The focus is on glutathione or wellness drips injected into the bloodstream or so-called 'cosmetic solutions’, injected into the skin. Worldwide, glutathione is not approved for skin whitening; in India, it is approved only for managing liver toxicity, such as during chemotherapy.”
Another specialist cautioned about side effects. Dr Radhika Raheja, dermatologist at Asian Hospital, added that poor-quality products may do more harm than good. “Chemical burns, allergenic reactions, rashes, and pigmentation can occur from using products containing harsh chemicals, counterfeit ingredients or excessive fragrance,” she said.
VLCC, one of India’s largest wellness chains, declined to comment.
Queries emailed to Hindustan Unilever Limited, which owns Lakmé products and salons, Pixi Beauty, WOW Skin Science, and Colorbar on Monday remained unanswered.
Queries emailed to the spokespersons of the Union health and family welfare ministry and DCGI on Tuesday also remained unanswered till press time.
Some beauty care firms concur.
Dr. Abraham Lee, managing director and chief executive officer of Atomy India, a leading Korean skincare company, said, “Good quality beauty products matter because skin is not only about appearance; it is the body’s largest protective barrier, facing pollution, UV exposure, stress, and changing lifestyles every day.”