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When Common Haus Hall, a Bavarian-style beer hall, opened in Jeffersonville, Ind., in late March of this year, beer director Roger Baylor wanted to offer a unique house specialty. The menu was already loaded with well-known German beer styles—pilsners, hefeweizens and doppelbocks from big-timers like Paulaner and Hacker-Pschorr—so he commissioned Jerry Gnagy of local brewery Against the Grain to make a smoked lager reminiscent of the rauchbiers from Bamberg, Germany.

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